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Indoor Saunas

An indoor sauna is the convenient one. No coat, no boots, no path to shovel, and it is cheaper to heat because it sits inside a heated house. The things to get right are ventilation, so moisture leaves the building rather than sitting in it, and having enough ceiling height to sit properly in the heat.

What to sort out first

Ventilation. The most important item on an indoor build. Every session puts moisture in the air and it has to go outside, not into the house. See does a sauna need ventilation.
Ceiling height. A sauna wants benches high enough to sit up in the heat, since heat gathers near the ceiling. Low basement ceilings are the usual constraint.
The electrical run. Its own dedicated circuit from the panel, done by a licensed electrician. Often a shorter and simpler run than an outdoor sauna.
Getting it in. If the sauna is going in a basement, work out how the materials get down there before you order.
Floor. A surface that sheds water and wipes up easily. A drain is usually not needed. See does a sauna need a floor drain.

Heater sizing indoors

An insulated room inside a heated house holds temperature well, so indoor saunas generally need less power than the same size room outdoors. Small indoor rooms often suit the 4.5kW, and mid-size rooms the 6kW. Work yours out with our sizing guide.

Which wood

Indoors you have more freedom, since rot resistance is less critical. Cedar is still a favourite for the aroma and the look. Hemlock is a good alternative if you want a pale, nearly odourless room. The comparison is in Western red cedar vs hemlock.

Our heaters

Procraft makes four CSA-approved electric sauna heaters. Every one includes 50 lbs of rocks, an integrated thermostat that heats to 110 degrees Celsius, a built-in 3-hour timer and a 5-year limited warranty.

4.5kW, for small indoor rooms
6kW, for mid-size rooms indoor or outdoor
8kW, for larger rooms and outdoor saunas
9kW, for large rooms and extreme cold

Compare them all on the sauna heaters page.

Buying the sauna itself